While the names of Gauguin and Brel are closely linked to Hiva Oa, the true spirit of the island is found in the Puamau Valley. At the archaeological site of I’ipona (also known as Lipona), every corner reveals a sense of wonder. Nestled at the foot of Mount Toea on the island’s northeastern coast, the site is home to several remarkable tiki, including Takaii, the largest tiki in Tahiti and its islands, standing an impressive 2.57 metres tall. Nearby lies Makii Taua te Pepe, a recumbent tiki measuring 1.75 metres in length and 1.20 metres in height.
In the afternoon, the Aranui anchors in the small bay of Tahuata, an island accessible only by sea due to the absence of an airport. Shaped like a leaf, Tahuata is rich in fragrance and history, scented with Tahitian tiare and frangipani. In 1595, Spanish explorers landed at Vaitahu, where a tragic encounter led to the deaths of around 200 islanders, and in 1842, the island became home to the first French colony in the Marquesas. Visit the impressive church built by the Vatican, adorned with fine Marquesan sculptures and striking stained‑glass windows symbolising the Virgin Mary. Tahuata is also renowned for its beautiful helmet shell and bone carvings, with plenty of local handicrafts to discover in the village.